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100 Spanish Days

and Nights

Category Archives: Barcelona

La Terre est bleue...

La Terre est bleue…

Well, maybe that’s what I’m going to do, all things considered. 6 months in Paris or London, and 2 or 3 months in Barcelona, for a warm indian summer during autumn, so I can swim in the sea. I didn’t meet any real Barcelonese anyway, all the people I met were either foreigners like me, either “provincials”, coming from a catalan “pueblo”, from the region. That’s probably the reason why Barcelona seems to be lacking some kind of soul, of character because nobody really lives there, nobody really belongs to that city.

Anyway, this Spanish experience was great, very positive after all, very much what I needed, even though I had absolutely no idea whatsoever of what I was looking for. I had some objectives that I achieved, one way or another. Keeping things open really bring something, in the end.

Comme une orange.

Comme une orange.

This should be the last post. This blog too is rather open, it does not give any answer, any direction. Not sure it’s even worth reading but it is really nice to keep a record of practical experiences. Thank you WordPress.

“In Barcelona, social status doesn´t matter as individuals from all walks of life travel to this city to experience the finest culture, modern architecture, vibrant nightlife, Catalan food and secret gardens.  Because of the people, Barcelona is one of the best places to indulge in a truly cultural experience. ”

This quasi absence of social status indeed makes of Bcn the perfect place for hipsters to hang around. I’ve never seen so many of them even in the London East End, so many with their funny outfits. 90’s fashion style reminds me of the worst time of any person’s life: adolescence. When I see those boys and girls so proudly wearing vintage (?) clothes that were so fatuous and nerdy back in the 90’s, I can help but smile.

I’ll be staying a couple of nights in this most appropriately named hostel for Barcelona The Hipstel, before I catch my bus back to Paris. It’s located off the Paseo de Gracia and I was wondering whether Barcelona was a favourite holiday destination for rich people, as it is for rather average persons like me. My answer would be “No”. I really believe BCN is a place for pretenders and ambitious people with no clue. But it’s so pleasant in the winter!

This Friday, one full night out, a “nuit blanche”, going in bars, walking around the Gotico, dancing in a club of La Rambla, a night that ended up on the beach at 6 am to witness the sun rises over the Mediterranean sea. Beautiful lights! Days are getting extremely hot already, more alike summer days, especially to a grey urban moody soul from the North like me.

So it was three months of holidays in BCN, as if I had taken all the vacation I hadn’t had for soooooooooooo long and craved so much. Now the city is overcrowded, with tourists from all over the world, mostly Europe, Russia, United States. In the streets, there is a smell of dollars and beer, marijuana and shish kebabs (ça pue le dollar et la bière, le shit et le kebab, it sounds better in French). The foreigners come to Spain and pay, invest and spend money in the local (cheap) services . The strong attachement to the catalan language and culture that the Catalans make so clear, in every aspect of the daily life, this proud (nationalistic?) attitude only puts off a member of the international/expat community living here who would want to make any move closer, to engage more with the locals, to get involved. Smart Catalans: we need the money, not the people…

Still, this unanswered question: is the crisis hurting so bad that people have no money to pay for things (languages classes for example) or are they real misers?!! When I see the cafés and terrasses packed every single hour of the day and night, I can’t wonder any further.

I’ve met such a huge amount of people here, most of them connected to the arts but dreaming away their creative life, apparently waiting for other people to “help” them achieve their projects. I’ve been asked to “collaborate”, acting as a freelance galerist, freelance producer, freelance researcher… The most fabulous thing was to hear people “offering” me those “jobs” as if a normal person had nothing better to do than dedicate her time and energy to others’ projects and not hers.

In the beginning, I approached Barcelona very much like London but rapidly modified my attitude, started to look closely to the particularities and got to know the local culture more and more. In London I was so eager to make something happen. From here and now in BCN, Paris doesn’t seem so bad after all. Viewed from behind-Barcelona and not from advanced-London. My stay here in Barcelona appears to me like a relegation, like a step backwards, in cultural/creative matters in particular. BCN it’s such a place that follows,! Or maybe I’ve seen too many things in London.

All  the first impressions, all the prejudices I had when I arrived (and which I tried so hard to get rid of) just confirmed themselves.Unless you get one (or more) daily dose of alcohol or drug to sustain illusions, and past the really genuine nice feelings due to the sun and warm weather, it is difficult to live in Barcelona on a long term basis. To live life to the fullest, for better and worst, should I put it. But for a pleasant winter holiday, I recommend it, most definitely. Places to hang around: bars, tapas, restaurants, benches, beaches, hostels and more bars… and that’s it!

 

I’m in El Raval again, in this hostel I stayed in for a few weeks in March, where I met the Finnish guy and the Argentinian too, where I had some fun.

For one full month, this April, I lived in a place situated in a street accross the road where stands this magnificient building Art Nouveau, the Hospital de Santa Creu i Sant Pau, just a few blocks away from the Sagrada Familia. A decent area, with very decent people, with shops and fitness clubs, local associations and kindergartens, a really boring place. But that’s not all: my place was some sort of art studio/dance & theatre workshop/artists residency/live & work space for art people/research & cultural centre,  a “creative platform” as they name themselves. Very much the kind of place I was looking for since the beginning of my stay in Barcelona, so as to meet local creative people and to produce little arty works. Which I did, eventually, some works on paper, a technique called “papiers découpés” with texts that make sense (or not, but I won’t try to explain my artistic approach just yet).

So, in the end, I made it! I totally, fully, almost faithfully achieved the goals I had, developed the projects I had in mind, getting the lifestyle I was imagining. Except that it wasn’t quite so satisfying and the whole experience brought me to consider going back to Paris pronto. There are many reasons for this: first, no one can live in a house/flat where the daylight never ever comes in, through no window whatsoever. No light and no fresh air either. Living in that sort of boxes teaches you the real richness on Earth, the only real things that matter for a human being: water, air, light… There is nothing else to life.

The other reason why I gradually started to feel bored is directly related to the BCN art scene, if you can call it an art scene. I wrote somewhere how I found most of the exhibitions, shows, presentations, cultural events here rather disappointed, to such an extend that I thought “Barcelona is so overrated”. I still believe so and I also have to agree with what some encounters, during the first days of my stay here, told me about the local creative people: a bunch of pretenders, “people who give themselves a name “artists” because they think it’s cool”. Maybe I’m blasée, maybe, coming from London and Paris, my views about art have become too demanding, maybe I’m too old or too arrogant. Still, I can’t think of absolutely nothing exciting about anything I’ve seen nor anyone I’ve met, artistically speaking, and people seem very proud of themselves, very self-centred, very pretentious to top it all. Arty-farty indeed!

So now, I’m back in El Raval, accross the road, there’s Poble Sec, with lots of these people in there too, but that’s okay because I don’t have to live with them.  There is Montjuic for my promenades and the Mediterranea for my relaxation, that’s all I need really. Water, light and air, no art. Art is, among other things, the expression of an existencial angst. There is no such concept in Spain, where the climat, the weather, the blue skies and the sunshine forbid, de facto, any form of odd longing feelings, any sort of melancholic moods. Nothing like the North, with its cold rainy days and grey skies, its tormented, serpentine, agonizing skies. Ah, ce mal anglais!

 

 

Only the French will get it…

carrerdelaverge

In El Raval (couldn’t be anywhere else anyway)

Nearly 11 weeks now in Barcelona, plus the 5 weeks in November/December 2013 when I was wwoofing in various parts of Spain, that makes 105 days today. And I feel awfully bored…

Why should I? Is it Barcelona or the Spanish people I ‘ve met (and the foreigners too), or is it me, a general mood that keeps directing my life, somehow, since the beginning? I’ve achieved some of the vague projects I had in mind when preparing my stay here: I made a lot of contacts in the local arts scene, I am renting a live-work space to develop some of the art projects I had in Paris, I am learning spanish, I’m enjoying the cheap food and drink, the night life, the sun and the sea… I didn’t get a job that’s a fact, but who wants to work hard for the appalling local minimum wages?

Too much holiday, but not exactly too much fun. Barcelona is cheap and overrated. To me, it doesn’t deserve more than a two months stay to live and experience things and to enjoy it; there’s obviously not sufficient material, there’s not enough to do, to see, to discover, to love, to develop in the long term. Now I understand how the French expat’ wife I came accross, during the Carnaval, would return every two or three weeks in France to stay there one week. Barcelona is a great place to have a good time, but just for a short period.

I miss London. I’m a city girl, I need culture and I need interactions of a certain kind. Close encounters of the third kind?! London, that’s a city full of freaks, that’s true and a city that re-invents itself constantly too, and transforms you by the same token.

I know why I wanted to try out living in Barcelona. In 2002, I came here for a four days holidays and considered the possibility to stay a little bit longer, learn Spanish, enjoy the sea, sun, mountain, nightlife (blahblah). Then I chose to go to London. At times, I felt some kind of doubt, I kept wondering whether I missed an opportunity or not. Now, I know I didn’t. Always do the right thing! Another reason for me being here, in Spain, is because of a man. But that’s another story.

So I’m bored and when I get bored, I just leave. And I’ve checked the prices for a one-way ticket to Paris: it’s the price of the rent I have paid this month, almost.

I feel good here. It’s impossible not to feel good. I go to the beach, I walk on the streets, I stay in cafés, I do a lot of things in public spaces and at no time I get bothered by somebody’s bad temper, bad mood, bad manners, and bad vibrations like in Paris. People here they just seem to mind their own business and that’s enough. One particular reaction though is when you walk behind somebody who is on his own (it’s usually men who do that), they look over their shoulders, palpating their pockets, straightening their backs, checking again their surroundings… Some old habits from a time when Barcelona was really not a safe place to live, a time when social outcasts and bad guys  would stop you on the streets and “beg” for money in a very special manner: “I’m not asking you if you can spare some change, I’m telling you to do it!”

Postcard from Barcelona

Postcard from Barcelona

A feeling of displacement and at the same time of having nowhere else to go in particular.

compocerclecarré composhadow

 

Compositions with circles and squares and the light, in the Parc de Guinardo.

It all has to do so much about being free of thought, free of projects, free of expectations too. I go with the flow because there is no other way. And I just take it easy, because I can’t do otherwise. But it’s only for a short period of time. First experience of living without a sense of belonging, without a sense of continuity, of progression. Without a sense of history, should I write?

 

Yesterday, after a good and dynamic swim in this great olympic pool, I took another street than usual to get me home from Gracia, the Carrer de la Providencia.

There was a van parked inconveniently on the streets and people were packing stuff into it. Behind, bags and card boxes of books apparently left to the passers-by. I stopped and skimmed the content and found rather interesting names: Blake, Shakespeare, a book about Michel Angel, Rilke, etc… An old man and an old woman watching me looking around asked me “Tienes un problema?” to which I answered “Solo mirando”. “You can pick up any book you want if you’d like”. Indeed, that’s what I did. I have no idea what I am going to do with all those books, apart from reading them, obviously.

booksfloor

Today is the Sant Jordi Fiesta. According to the tradition, men offer a rose to women and women offer a book to men and vice-versa, according to modernity (of course, that’s a joke because I’ve never seen women more submitted and passive than here in Spain. Needless to say that men don’t particularly like flowers, I’m not sure they read so many books anyway!). So I thought Sant Jordi would be a good opportunity to sell the books, especially after seeing my flat mates yesterday preparing their stand to sell roses in Plaza del Sol. Yet, it might be a challenge to sell those books. So far I haven’t met any Catalan guy or girl who reads English or American poetry.

rosesbox  writingmachine writinghands  rosenote  rosenoteGP

Upside down, just as it should be.

I was in Montjuic yesterday, I spent the whole afternoon in the gardens, and there are plenty. Everytime I go there, I try to discover something new, it is a park full of surprises for me, nothing like I’ve ever seen before and so far, it’s been a treat.

I hope, I prey there’ll never be an entrance fee to get in, as there is a tendency in Barcelona either to rise the prices or to have people pay for things that were free before…(“la propriété, c’est le vol!”).

plan-carte-Montjuïc-Barcelone

I found a bigger hole between the poles that surround the Jardi Botanico and I sneaked in. That’s trespassing, good lord! I strolled around this quite beautiful garden. I saw a tree, a big pine, with branches strong and well-developed, with a low base between the first two branches and a little protuberance where to put my feet. I started to climb up this welcoming tree. What a sensation! A time travel into my childhood when, during summer holidays, I remember climbing rather high any elevated objects: walls, trees, swings, the frameworks of playgrounds, anything high!

I felt the possibility of falling, I even picture myself doing that stunt, yet, I went on and took the chance to climb one more branch up. I sat on it, peaceful, looking at the scenery. That was all to save my day.

It’s been nine weeks that I’m here in Barcelona and safe for the pleasure I get from going to the sea and the parks, me abburo muchissimo!